Lisbon likes to cultivate paradoxes. The Atlantic city sometimes has a Mediterranean feel to it; it can reveal an atmosphere that’s bohemian or rebellious, depending on whether you explore the narrow streets that climb its seven hills or the banks of the Tagus. But it never loses its friendly simplicity and vibrant light. A capital that is timeless yet serenely anchored in the 21st century. 

On the banks of the Tagus, the Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) is the ideal place to get your bearings. Flanked by classic mustard-yellow buildings and arcade galleries, it illuminates the river. The nearby Cais do Sodré train station, vibrates to the rhythm of trains whizzing off to the Belém district in seven minutes. No longer really Lisbon, but not quite the suburbs; the mere mention of the name conjures up the golden age of great discoveries.

It was from Belém that Vasco de Gama set sail for India; where Magellan began his world tour. Everywhere, navigators built masterpieces with the riches brought back from the antipodes. At the mouth of the river, the old Belém Tower stands as its symbol. Climbing its steep staircase leading to the terrace is a journey in itself, to better admire a city that never stopped looking towards the New World, but remains one of the most authentic capitals of Europe. 

The city nicknamed "the bride of the Tagus" has transformed its "archaisms" into assets, with walks in the bohemian atmosphere of crowded alleyways and flower-filled squares. The azulejos (ceramic tiles) adorning the facades, and the black and white paving stones that decorate the pavements will guide your steps to the "miradouros", viewpoints offering romantic views over the roofs of the city. Our favourites? Those of Sao Pedro de Alcantara, Graca and Senhora Do Monte.

Alfama is the most picturesque of the neighbourhoods, the soul of Lisbon with its labyrinth of narrow streets and old fishermen's houses hosting quaint boutiques... What a contrast with the Baixa neighbourhood with its neo-classical decor, built after the earthquake that destroyed Lisbon in 1755. At the instigation of the Marquis of Pombal, buildings with chic facades and squares of perfect proportions were rebuilt, such as the Praça Dom Pedro IV (or Rossio).

At sunset, the hustle and bustle of its lively bars echoes the fado singers and more modern sounds that enliven the Bairro Alto, another hilltop neighbourhood. During the day, it seems half asleep, even though its buildings with their colourful facades conceal artists' shops and designer studios. At night, people party in the cobbled streets until their glasses are drained to the last drop...

To the east of the city, the cable-stays and long silhouette (13 km!) of the Vasco de Gama Bridge illustrate the revival of Lisbon. The capital moved into the 21st century with the 1998 International Exhibition. For the occasion, buildings with bold lines were erected, such as the Oriente train station, a vast glass nave designed by the Spaniard Santiago Calatrava.

On the opposite bank, facing the setting sun, is another eye-catching bridge, this one suspended! Inaugurated in 1966, the 25th April Bridge gives Lisbon a slight air of San Francisco. At the foot of the bridge, the Santo Amaro Docks host bars and restaurants. Unless you prefer the nearby LX Factory, an industrial complex converted into vintage boutiques and fashionable venues that are the places to be for trendy Lisbon youth...

Sites and monuments

• São Jorge Castle, with its crenelated walls, perched on the highest hill in the city.
• The 12th century Sé Patriarchal Cathedral, which looks like a Romanesque fortress.
• The Santa Justa Lift (1903), to admire the roofs of the city. 
• The Monastery of Sao-Vicente-de-Fora, which overlooks the Alfama district.
• Carmo Convent, a 14th century church destroyed by the 1755 earthquake (open nave)
• Park of the Nations and its modern pavilions inherited from the 1998 Universal Exhibition
• The richly decorated Belém Tower, built in 1515, formerly the Tagus "control tower".
• Jéronimos Monastery, built in the 16th century (in Belém), with its monumental nave and lace-like stone carvings.
• 25th April suspension bridge where you can visit one of the pillars and the deck.
• The Avenida da Liberdade (one of the most expensive shopping streets in Europe) 

Parks

• Edouardo VII Park, with its formal gardens and greenhouses with rich tropical plants
• The banks of the Tagus River from the Plaza del Commercio, redesigned as a pleasant walk. 
• Monsanto's floral park which stretches over 900 hectares and hosts concerts in the summer. 
• The Gulbenkian Foundation Park (decorative art collections) and its Botanical Garden 
• The green spaces of the Park of the Nations dedicated to botanical discoveries

Museums

• Lisboa Story Center, whose modern technology tells the story of Lisbon
• National Museum of Ancient Arts and its collection of Portuguese art, in a 17th century palace
• Museum of the Orient dedicated to Asian arts in a rehabilitated warehouse on the banks of the Tagus River.
• Pavilion of Knowledge (Science Museum) with interactive events, in a modern pavilion of the 1998 World Expo.
• National Coach Museum (in Belém), shared between the former Royal Riding School and a modern building
• MAAT (architecture, technologies), in a contemporary building on the banks of the Tagus river.
• Berardo Museum (in Belém), which exhibits the works of 20th century painters, from Picasso to Soulages.  
• Viniportugal dedicated to the wines of Portugal, with tasting of the best nectars.

• 25 April - Carnation Revolution Day, celebrating the overthrow of the dictatorship (1974)
• 10 June - National Day of Portugal, day of the death of the poet Luis de Camoes
• 1 to 30 June - the Popular Saints' Day celebrations fill the districts of Lisbon with life (parades, street entertainment, dancing...). Highlight on 12/13 June with Saint Anthony, the city's patron saint.
• July - Super Bock Super Rock Festival
• 5 October - Republic Day, for the creation of the Republic in 1910.
• 25 October - Feast of the capture of the city from the Moors in 1147.
• 1 December - Independence Restoration Day (1640), after 80 years of Spanish domination.

• Take a chance on the trams that climb the hills, especially the Electrico 28, delightfully retro with its wooden interior and moleskin benches. It winds its way through the narrow streets and skims the facades of the historic Alfama district... A journey back in time!
• Take the train from Rossio station to Sintra (40 min). Nestled in the mountains, the resort town (listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site) dazzles with its eclectic, exuberant villas and lush green parks, including Montserrat.   
• Head to Estoril (from the Cais do Sodré train station). Famous for its Formula 1 circuit and its casino immortalized by James Bond, the seaside resort (20 km from Lisbon) has some beautiful beaches. Combine your visit with the nearby port of Cascais, with its white streets and lively terraces.
   

Dishes

• Bacalhau (cod) - dried or salted, boiled or roasted, is part of Portugal. There are said to be as many ways to cook it as there are days in the year!
• Caldo verde - a potato and cabbage soup with slices of sausage added to it.
• Frango piri-piri - grilled chicken, coated with a sauce of olive oil and chilli peppers
• Feijoada - the "Portuguese cassoulet", made from pork and black beans

Desserts

• Queijo da Serra - the most famous Portuguese cheese made from sheep's milk
• Pastel de nata - the dessert of Lisbon, a delicious flan in puff pastry, sprinkled with sugar or cinnamon.

Drinks*

• Wines, produced in the north of Portugal (around Porto) but also in Alentejo, an agricultural region south of Lisbon.
• Ginja, the local aperitif made from morello cherries to be tasted in the "ginjinhas".  
• Sagres, the most famous Portuguese beer, blond or red.

* l'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération

• Portugal Tourist Office
• Lisbon airport (LISO)
• French Ministry of Foreign Affairs
• French Ambassy in Portugal
• Ambassy of Portugal in France