This river, which is called the "Vilaine", (nasty) doesn’t deserve its name. Perhaps it comes from the Breton name "ar ster vilen" (the river with mills) or "ar ster velen" (the yellow river, because of its muddy waters during floods). In fact, it idles gently through the Armorican countryside and flows out into the Atlantic Ocean. Above all, it contributes to the well-being of Rennes. For a long time, the city was a merely place on the way to the beaches of Finistère or Morbihan. Today, the capital of Brittany has got its own back. It is regularly voted as one of the top French cities in terms of quality of life.

It must be said that the city has several assets, starting with the exceptional heritage in the historic heart. Walking through the squares or the cobbled streets around Saint-Pierre cathedral is like travelling through time, from the century of wood and stone to that of granite and limestone. Rennes has the highest concentration of timber-framed houses in the whole of the West of France, dating from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, with no less than 286 exceptional buildings. At a bend in the road, in the shelter of a porch, decorations and anecdotes reveal stories great and small. And behind the sculpted stone facades, as you push back the doors of private mansions, another world is revealed, with old stairwells, fountains and gardens. 

The heritage takes on another dimension with the Parliament of Brittany, the city's most famous monument, built in the 17th century in the classical style. Magnificently restored after the fire of 1994 which ravaged its framework, it’s an impressive sight! The City Hall and clock tower, whose concave façade is echoed by the opera house opposite it, has just as much to offer. Strolling through the city is also a chance to discover the unusual talent of mosaic artist Isidore Odorico. In the late 19th and early 20th century, he decorated monuments, facades and shops: such as the art-deco Saint-Georges swimming pool, which he adorned with a 96-metre long enamel fresco. Today, swimmers do their laps in a site classified as a historical monument! 

The unique buildings and the host of museums and cultural venues shouldn’t give you the idea that Rennes is stuck in the past. Its 67,000 students make it one of the most vibrant cities in France. They often hang out in rue Saint-Michel. With a bar every 7 metres, it holds the French record for the highest concentration of drinking establishments, earning the nickname "rue de la soif" (street of thirst). But it isn’t the only one: the streets of Saint-Georges and Saint-Malo had already claimed this title! Rennes is also looking to be creative. Contemporary architects have occupied the city, such as Jean Nouvel who designed Cap Mail, built like an elegant liner just a stone's throw from the Mail François Mitterrand, a new promenade with a Las Ramblas feel to it since being redesigned in 2015. Street art is also part of the scene. Don't miss the frescoes by War (nicknamed the Banksy of Rennes), the funny stickers by Mémé or the feathered snakes by Oré. 

As for nature, it’s never far away. Rennes was voted biodiversity capital in 2016 and is one of the top 10 greenest cities in France, with 868 hectares of green spaces (17% of its surface area). Flower-filled parks and the banks of the Vilaine invite you to go green. But the Breton capital is also at one with the surrounding countryside. It takes just a few minutes to go from an urban setting to a country landscape. And for those who prefer the seaside, the walls of Saint-Malo, the chic villas of Dinard and the beaches of the Côte d'Emeraude are only an hour's drive away, for invigorating walks by the sea... 
 

Sites et monuments

• St Pierre Cathedral - rebuilt in 1844 in a classical style, it houses a Roman high altar, an impressive pipe organ, remarkable paintings and vaults. 
• Parliament of Brittany - designed in the 17th century by Salomon de Brosse, architect of the Luxembourg Palace (Senate) in Paris, it was beautifully restored after the 1994 fire. The paintings and gilding are stunning, especially the sculpted ceiling in the Grand Chamber.
• City Hall - built after a major fire in the town in 1720, it is topped by a clock tower reminiscent of the belfry destroyed by the flames. Its concave facade matches the convex facade of the Opera House opposite.
• Maison Ti-Koz - located in rue Saint-Guillaume, it is one of the oldest timber-framed houses in Rennes (1510), famous for its bright red façade adorned with statues.
• Saint-Georges swimming pool - inaugurated in 1925 and still in use, it is considered a masterpiece of art-deco, magnified by the mosaics of the artist Isidore Odorico.   
• The streets of the city centre - lined with colourful timber-framed houses, the streets of Saint-Sauveur, la Psalette, Saint-Georges or Chapitre are sure to capture your heart.
• Place des Lices - surrounded by beautiful medieval houses, it once hosted chivalry tournaments. Every Saturday, it resounds with the banter of traders, in one of the largest street markets in France.
• Place Sainte Anne - the bustling heart of Rennes in the evening, it has been pedestrianised since 2020. With its bookshops by day and bistros by night, it just never sleeps!

Museums

• Museum of Fine Arts – hosting a cabinet of curiosities, archaeological collections and paintings, from the 14th century to the present day, including paintings from the 17th century French school and the Pont-Aven school.  
• Les Champs Libres - designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc, this modern cultural centre houses the Musée de Bretagne (history of the region), L'Espace des Sciences (great for kids) and a Planetarium. 
• Bintinas Ecomuseum - this former farm tells the story of Brittany's agricultural history, with an estate of cultivated land, a conservatory orchard and a herd of 19 hardy breeds.
• Brittany’s Regional Contemporary Art Fund (Frac) - the modern building by Odile Decq in the Beauregard district hosts contemporary art exhibitions.

Parks and natural spaces

• Le Thabor - this is the "Prince of gardens", 10 hectares in the town centre. It is a mixture of French and English style gardens, greenhouses, an aviary, an orangery... 
• Les Gayeulles - the Central Park of Rennes! This 100-hectare wooded area, to the north-east of Rennes, is both a leisure centre (sports course, swimming pool, mini-golf, animal park, etc.) and a place for walking.
• Parc Oberthür - a green oasis named after the Rennes printer François-Charles Oberthür.
  Public woodland - with more than 80 kilometres of marked trails, it stretches over 3,000 hectares on the outskirts of Rennes. 
• The Ille-et-Rance canal – the banks run all the way to Saint-Malo and have been developed for cycling or running. There are locks dotted along the way. 

• January - International Magic Festival.
• February - Travelling, a film festival on the theme of cities held since 1990.
• May - Rock'n Solex, Europe's largest concentration of Solex (racing) with many concerts.
  Spring - Mythos Festival, in Thabor Park. For 10 days: concerts, stories, tales, theatre and conferences. 
• End of June - Rennes' big street sale (the second largest in France after Lille), with hundreds of exhibitors selling their wares in the streets of the centre. 
• July - Les Tombées de la nuit, a street arts festival with numerous events.
• July-August - Transat en ville, free cultural festival every day: concerts, entertainment, illuminations, night visits, open-air cinema...
• July-August - The Parliament Illuminations - Digital projections onto the building’s facade, at nightfall.
• September (even-numbered years) - Les Ateliers de Rennes, biennial contemporary art festival.
• November - Jazz à l'ouest - Jazz festival with numerous concerts.
• November - Mettre en scène Festival - organised by the National Theatre of Brittany, with performances and plays on different stages.  
• December - Rencontres Transmusicales - one of the best known music festivals (pop, rock, techno...) in France.  

• Rennes has many hidden courtyards, accessible only with guides who hold the keys. The courtyard of Psalette is one of the most remarkable, a real natural setting surrounded by half-timbered houses. To be discovered on visits organised by the tourist office. 

• The towpath along the Rennes-Saint Malo canal for a breath of fresh air by bike, on protected cycle paths. The most daring will do the whole route in three days, i.e. about a hundred kilometres. On the way, take a look at the series of 11 locks at Hédé-Bazouges. 

• Brush up on your grammar about forty kilometres from Rennes, in the small town of Bécherel, known as the city of books, with a range of events (book market, book festival, book night). The medieval streets are dotted with pretty granite houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries.

Dishes

• Crêpes (pancakes made from wheat) and galettes (made from buckwheat) - With sugar or fillings, thick or thin, there’s something for everyone. For a little local colour, try a galette-saucisse, grilled sausage wrapped in a galette.  
• Andouille - a classic Breton sausage. The most famous is from Guémené-sur-Scorff, in Morbihan, and must be smoked. 
• Coucou de Rennes - farm poultry with streaked plumage and fleshy meat. 
• Kig ha farz - a kind of Breton stew.
• Cotriade - the Breton version of bouillabaisse, with a mixture of fish cooked in a flavoured court-bouillon.
• Oysters - the most famous come from Cancale (an hour from Rennes) or the Gulf of Morbihan.  
• Scallops - those from Erquy (Saint-Brieuc bay) are delicious!  
• Bar - the name for sea bass from the Atlantic, appreciated for its very fine texture.   
• Sardines - these have made the reputation of  Douarnenez in Finistère. 
• Artichokes and cauliflowers - both vegetables are widely grown in the region.

Desserts

• Fars - a baked dessert with fruit of which there are several variations. The best known recipe is the one with prunes. 
• Kouign-aman - made with sugar and butter, this traditional cake is high in calories, but so delicious!
• Strawberries - the mild climate produces tasty strawberries, such as those from Plougastel.

Drinks

• Cider - as in Normandy, it is found everywhere. There are many orchards around Rennes. Farmhouse or home-made, it is ideal to accompany crêpes. 
• Chouchen - this alcoholic drink (12 to 15°) is made by fermenting honey with water and natural yeasts.  
• Lambig: cider brandy (40°).

• Rennes Tourist Office
• Ille-Et-Vilaine Tourist Office
• Britanny Tourist Office
• Rennes Airport