Delacroix and Matisse, Jack Kerouac and Tennessee Williams... all fell in love with Tangier, seduced by a city with so many paradoxes: discreet and mysterious, whereas Morocco is exuberant in Marrakech or Agadir; maritime, whereas the kingdom looks towards its desert; improbable, since its old medina is next to a European cornice that looks like the Croisette in Cannes, and where the inhabitants live in western style.

Spain is just 14 km away, across the Strait of Gibraltar... This strategic location earned Tangier international status from 1923 to 1956, attracting traffickers of all kinds so often featured in old gangster films. But don't go looking in the city for its shady side, it disappeared long ago! It must be said that the city is pulsing with change. It has even become Morocco's second economic hub after Casablanca, thanks to the huge port of Tangier-Mediterranean, some 50 kilometres away.

To discover the charms of Tangier, the easiest way is to follow the footsteps of the illustrious artists who made its history.  It all starts with a mint tea in the old-fashioned Café de Paris, once frequented by the writer Jean Genet. Its 1950s decor offers a delight journey into the past. From there, head off to the ruins of Gran Teatro Cervantes, inaugurated in 1913 and closed for half a century. Morocco recently announced plans to restore the blue and yellow azulejos on the façade and the old velvet theatre hall. We can't wait! 

Frozen in the 19th century, the Hotel Continental so dear to Degas, overlooking the old port, is in better condition. But it is no rival to the El Minzah Hotel, where the ghost of Rita Hayworth still roams. In this maze of historic addresses, the Villa de France - now renovated - has reconnected to its rich past. From room 35 of the palace, Matisse painted some of his most beautiful pictures, fixing on canvas the blue of the Mediterranean. 

The Grand Socco, the vibrant heart of Tangier, is not far away. The hustle and bustle is in full swing in this busy square, which inspired the title of a novel by Joseph Kessel. An Anglican church with a minaret bell tower and the old Rif art-deco cinema remind us of a bygone European era. Like a decompression chamber before diving into the medina, tiered like an amphitheatre down to the sea. 
Nothing like Marrakech. There are no reed roofs to protect you from the heat, no jostling crowds. You wander through a maze of whitewashed houses, some yellow or blue. And the clean, airy alleys leading down to the port are bathed in the soft light that has delighted so many painters. Tucked away are craft shops and authentic dars (traditional houses), some of which have been converted into charming hotels.

Whatever path you take, you will come across the Kasbah square, where the Dar el Makhzen, the former palace of the Sultan, stands. From up there, the smells of the nearby market will tease the nostrils. Wearing hats adorned with pompoms, women from the nearby mountains sell vegetables and poultry in a merry hubbub. The walk would not be complete without a last stop at Fuentes café, where Kerouac found inspiration; or at Baba café, the Rolling Stones' favourite stopover. You’ll come out whistling "Satisfaction"! 

Sites and monuments

• The Kasbah, an ancient fortress with crenellated walls, overlooking the medina.
• The Grand Socco, the main square linking the medina and the modern city.
• The Petit Socco, the heart of the medina where the alleys converge, bustling with cafés.
• The Sidi-Bou-Abib mosque. Even if you don't go inside, you can admire its minaret covered with coloured tiles. 
• The Palace of Italian Institutions, known as Moulay Hafid Palace, is one of the most beautiful buildings in Tangier (1912) with its vast Arab-Andalusian patio.
• The old port is being renovated and is gradually giving way to a marina, shops and restaurants, and even a museum.
• Boulevard Pasteur, the city's main thoroughfare lined with shops, restaurants and French-style cafés.

Parks and beaches

• Mendoubia Gardens - a green space in the heart of the city to take a breather. Some of the trees are eight centuries old.
• The municipal beach (near the old port) with its calm waters, children's entertainment and water activities.
• Achakar beach, one of the most beautiful in Tangier, near Cape Spartel overlooked by a beautiful lighthouse.
• The viewpoint of Perdicaris, a natural site located at the gates of the city, with a lovely view of the Strait of Gibraltar. 

Museums

• The Dar el Makhzen, the former sultan's palace of the 17th century located in the heart of the Kasbah. It houses a museum dedicated to the history of Tangier.
• The Delacroix Gallery of the French Institute of Morocco - dedicated to contemporary art, hosting cultural events and exhibitions.
• The Lorin Foundation - photo exhibition in a former synagogue in the heart of the medina
• United States Legation - in the heart of the kasbah, this diplomatic building has been transformed into a museum exhibiting works of art and furniture.
• The Palais des Hôtes (former Forbes Museum) hosts a collection of 115,000 toy soldiers from around the world.

• 11 January - Independence Manifesto
• June - The Tangier Book and Arts Spring, with debates, exhibitions...
• June - Mediterranean Nights, a festival dedicated to world music
• 30 July - Throne Day (anniversary of the King's enthronement), with parades and fireworks.
• 20 August - Anniversary of the Revolution of the King and the People 
• September - International Jazz Festival
• 18 November - Independence Day, to celebrate Mohammed V's return from exile

• At the gates of Tangier, Cape Spartel marks the dividing of the waters of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Nearby, you can visit the caves of Hercules, where the hero is said to have rested, before reviving your strength on the terrace of Hafa café, suspended above the ocean.
• Explore Tetouan, an hour's drive through the Rif mountain range. Surrounded by crenellated ramparts, the traditional medina, with its narrow streets, terraces and lively souks, is one of the most beautiful and authentic in Morocco, listed as a World Heritage Site. 
• Azure, cobalt or Majorelle ... Chefchaouen (85 km from Tangier) was daubed in blue some twenty years ago to attract visitors. A successful operation! At an altitude of 600 m, the stunning village perched in the Rif mountains, with its blue houses adorned with flowers, will amaze you. 
   

Starters

• Mechouia salad - tomatoes, peppers and onions, flavoured with coriander or cumin

Dishes

• Tajine - meat or fish, spicy or sweet and accompanied by vegetables, prunes, almonds, simmered and served in a terracotta dish.  
• Couscous - semolina accompanied by beef or mutton and vegetables (carrots, courgettes, turnips, beans, peas...)
• Pastilla - the holiday dish, puff pastry filled with chicken or pigeon mince (in its finest version), sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. 
• Kefta - beef or lamb skewers or meatballs

Desserts

• Pastries - inseparable from Morocco, they are innumerable: gazelle horn (filled with marzipan and scented with orange blossom), almond triangle, ghribiya (shortbread flavoured with lemon zest, orange).

Drinks 

• Tea - green and very sweet, with mint.  
• Squeezed orange juice - a Moroccan classic. Beware of ice cubes and added water, which can cause intestinal problems!
• Wines - They are mainly produced in the regions of Meknes and Casablanca. Among the reds and rosés, Guerrouane is one of the best known.
• Mahia - an aniseed-flavoured fig alcohol that can be enjoyed as a digestive, or in cocktails with fruit juices.

• Morocco National Tourist Office
• Tangier Tourist Office
• Tangier Airport (TNG)
• French Ministry of Foreign Affairs
• Moroccan Ambassy in France 
• General Consulate of France in Morocco