The mere mention of the city’s past - when it was called Byzantium or Constantinople - revives our fantasies of the Orient, with its curved mosques, fragrant spice bazaars and gold-laden Ottoman palaces; a city with a strange geography with one foot in Europe and the other in Asia. The emblematic Bosphorus, several hundred metres wide, separates the two continents, spanned by three giant suspension bridges. Container ships share the strait with frail fishing boats and ferries, the preferred means of transport for the people of Istanbul, in a finely tuned choreography.  

It's not easy to capture the soul of this teeming megalopolis of 15 million inhabitants. Instinctively drawn by the old stone buildings, we start by heading for the European part of Istanbul, to Sultanahmet to be precise. With its cobbled streets and wooden houses converted into shops, restaurants and hotels, the district is truly bohemian. It is home to most of the city's historic sites: the domes of the mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Blue Mosque lined with millions of blue Iznik tiles and the Basilica of Saint Sophia, with its monumental dome inherited from the Byzantine era.

Nearby, the legendary Topkapi Palace is just as dazzling. Veritable palace of a thousand and one nights, the former residence of the sultans has been transformed into a museum. Here you can admire precious stones, collections of porcelain and richly illuminated manuscripts, not forgetting the harem where dozens of concubines and wives lived in splendour during the heyday of the Ottoman Empire. The view of Istanbul from the Topkaki ramparts is stunning. An ideal place to get your bearings of the city.

Over there, you can see the Grand Bazaar. Even the most sophisticated GPS device won't find its way around this maze of shops! Genius antique dealers and talented goldsmiths rub shoulders with counterfeit specialists. You'll have to search patiently to find that leather bag, piece of colourful fabric or oil lamp, but without the genie inside! Further on, the Galata iron bridge spans the estuary of the Golden Horn. Tens of thousands of Istanbulites cross it every day in a deluge of noise. Fishermen have taken up residence here, reeling in sardines and red mullet to sell to the restaurants set up... under the bridge.

On the other side, the modern city has taken up residence. Strolling around Taksim Square, a meeting place for young people, you realise that Turkey would not be out of place among the nations of the "Old Continent".  The pedestrian Istiklâl Cadessi (Independence Street), lined with pretty Baroque and neo-classical buildings, is crowded with creative boutiques, international names and design galleries. On either side, covered passageways house designer boutiques and interior design shops.

The district reflects the wave of youth (25% of the population is under 15!) and modernism, which can also be seen further afield in the business district, topped with bold skyscrapers. Young people are also reinventing Istanbul, as far as Ortaköy (under one of the suspension bridges). Once a delightful village whose mosque is still a photographer's delight, the district has become a haunt for late-nighters. You can party till you drop on the terraces of the lounges and trendy open-air clubs lining the Bosphorus, just like in Miami or Ibiza!

Sites and monuments in Istanbul

• Hagia Sophia - The Christian basilica with its Byzantine architecture and chic mosaics became a mosque in the 15th century, then a museum in 1935, before becoming a mosque again (with free access) in 2020.  
• The Blue Mosque - Overlooked by six elegant minarets and lined with millions of blue Iznik tiles, this is Istanbul's most famous mosque, accessible to all.
• Soliman Mosque - Its silhouette standing out against the horizon is part of the magic of Istanbul. More than just a place of worship, it is a city within a city, with its own hospital, schools and library...
• Cistern-Basilica - A stone's throw from the Basilica of Saint Sophia, a strange underground forest of stone columns bathe in the water that once supplied Istanbul.
• Grand Bazaar - The largest covered market in the world (20 hectares!), this maze of 4,000 shops offers the best (jewellery, silks, etc.) and the worst (counterfeits). 
• Egyptian Bazaar - A neighbour of the Grand Bazaar, this market is brimming with baskets full of colourful powders, the scent of mint and cumin, dried fruit and Turkish delight...
• Galata Bridge - The city's most famous bridge, with the silhouette of the minarets standing out against the horizon. It's a postcard that's been seen all over the world, but it's so beautiful!
• Galata Tower - A vestige of Istanbul's Genoese walls, this tower offers a lovely view of the city from its summit.
• Dolmabahçe Palace - On the banks of the Bosphorus, this palace with its white marble façade was built in the 19th century and was the residence of the sultans from 1853 to 1922.
• Fish market - Located in the Beyoglu district and surrounded by numerous restaurants, this is a real slice of Istanbul life. 

Parks and natural sites 

• Gülhane Park - In the heart of the historic district of Sultanahmet, a vast park with beautiful shady paths and soft lawns where you can take a break between two visits.
• Maçka Park - On the west bank of the Bosphorus, this airy space so popular with young Istanbulites borders the university of the same name.
• Yildiz Park - In the very north of the city, set on a hill and planted with rare species of trees, it is wonderfully romantic with its small lakes and kiosks.
• Banks of the Bosphorus - Linking the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, the strait is also the natural border between Europe and Asia. Its palace-lined banks offer some lovely walks.

Museums

• Topkapi Palace - Former residence of the sultans - a labyrinth of courtyards, gardens and mausoleums - has been transformed into a museum housing rich treasures including the Kasikçi, a diamond the size of an apricot!
• Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art - Housed in a former Ottoman palace that was once the residence of viziers and later a prison, this museum is home to countless masterpieces, including marble, ceramics and carpets.
• Museum of Antiquities - Housed in a 19th-century palace, it features a fine collection of objects dating from the Greco-Roman era to the Byzantine Middle Ages.
• The Tiled Pavilion Museum - A must for all lovers of Ottoman ceramics.
• Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam - A museum dedicated to the sciences from the 9th to the 16th centuries: astronomy, geometry, medicine, etc.
• Museum of Modern Art - Located on the banks of the Bosphorus, in a warehouse in the old docks. It features works by Turkish artists from the 19th century to the present day.
• Naval Museum - Just a stone's throw from Maçka Park, on the banks of the Bosphorus, this is a reminder of the power of the Turkish navy over the centuries.
• Santral Istanbul - Converted into a museum of contemporary art, this former electricity factory has renovated its machine room and now exhibits modern works.

Must-see events

• 23 April - National Sovereignty and Children's Day (to commemorate the end of the sultanate).
• April - Istanbul International Film Festival.
• April - Istanbul Tulip Festival.
• 5 and 6 May - Traditional Spring Festival.
• 19 May - Youth and Sports Festival (numerous parades).
• June - Istanbul International Music Festival.
• June - Istanbul Chill-Out Festival (electronic music festival).
• July - Istanbul International Jazz Festival.
• 30 August - Victory Day (over the Greeks, in 1922).
• September to November - Istanbul Biennial of Contemporary Art.
• 29 October - Republic Day (proclaimed in 1923).
• The Sugar Feast - Religious festival marking the end of Ramadan ( dates vary).
• Sacrifice Day (Kurban Bayrami) - 70 days after the end of Ramadan (date varies), commemorating Abraham's sacrifice of the sheep. 

Unique experiences in Istanbul

To appreciate all the subtleties of the city or simply admire the palaces lining the Bosphorus, don't hesitate to hop on a ferry, which is used here like a taxi. Several companies also offer sightseeing cruises.

The Pera Palace is the ideal spot for a drink or, better still, an overnight stay. The Compagnie des Wagons-Lits built this hotel in 1892 to accommodate passengers on the Orient-Express. Legend has it that Agatha Christie wrote "The Crime of the Orient Express" here.

The more peaceful Asian side of the city is well worth a diversion, to the Kadikoÿ district for example. Climb the cobbled streets and hop on the old red tram. Antique shops and patisseries, bookshops and traditional cafés line the pavements, all the way to the Sali Pazari flea market. 

Gastronomy in Turkey

• Mezze - This name covers a multitude of hors d'oeuvres: börek (puff pastry) with cheese or meat, cacik (made with yoghurt and cucumber) or dolma (stuffed vine leaves). 
• Tripe soup - A Turkish speciality, served as a starter in traditional restaurants.
• Kebab - Now an international favourite, the Turkish sandwich (lamb or beef grilled on a vertical spit) is even better when eaten at any time of day in Istanbul!
• Pide - A kind of pizza without the tomato sauce, topped with meat, cheese... 
• Börek - A savoury pastry filled with cheese, meat or spinach... 
• Kumpir - Baked potato stuffed with cheese.
• Güveç - A stew of mutton, beef and chicken, simmered in an earthenware dish. 
• Fish - Red mullet, sardines, mullet or sea bream are served grilled.

Desserts

• Beyaz peynir - A cheese in the feta family.
• Bavlaka - Puff pastry with walnuts or pistachios, topped with honey.
• Künefe - Angel hair dessert filled with cheese. 
• Loukoums - The sweet treat par excellence! With hazelnut, pistachio or rose, you can buy them just about anywhere, especially in the Egyptian bazaar...

Drinks

• Turkish coffee - Enjoyed at any time of day, it is heated with the coffee grounds. Very strong, true connoisseurs enjoy it without sugar.  
• Black tea - Cultivated on the shores of the Black Sea. 
• Raki - An aniseed-flavoured drink made from sultanas, reminiscent of Greek ouzo.
• Wine* - Turkey produces excellent wines, particularly on the Aegean coast (in the Izmir region) and on the shores of the Sea of Marmara. 
• Boza - A creamy drink made from fermented millet.

* l'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération

• French ambassy in Türkiye
• Istanbul Airport
• French ministry of foreign affairs